Work In Progress

Not only is work progressing well on the TR6 project, but it looks as though work is progressing well now that everything is looking freshly painted and shiny.  I have been in charge of the spray painting in two pack black and Cherine has been ably picking around all the machined surfaces and the plated bits on the engine with a brush.  As usual everything is primed with Red Lead Oxide which gives for a nice long life, all the cast bits are finished in satin and all the pressed steel bits in gloss. Fitting and final assembly is to follow shortly.

Work is also well underway with the 3.8 MK2 Jaguar.  The owner and I had been aware for some while that the engine was a little tired, but an extremely loud knocking had brought the car’s story to an abrupt conclusion.  This is not an entirely unknown phenomenon on the 3.8 Jaguar:  The engine had been originally developed by increasing the cylinder bore size of the 3.4 litre unit and by fitting liners to the cylinder block. Jaguar had initially given suitable clearance for the larger pistons by machining a chamfer on the edge of the combustion chambers in the cylinder head.  It wasn’t long however before someone decided that producing two different heads for the three available capacities of engine made no sense. Therefore the chamfer was deleted from the cylinder head and machined instead on the 3.8 litre pistons.  What this means of course is that it is absolutely essential to make sure that the cylinder head and the pistons in a particular engine are compatible.  In the words of Michael Caine, “not a lot of people know that”.  This car is a 1961 model and has a c1965 cylinder head. All was fine until the big end bearings developed a little extra clearance and allowed the pistons to start contacting the head in a somewhat noisy fashion.

Also on the subject of cylinder heads, I have been attending to one such item from a 1935 Derby Bentley which is suffering from cracks on three of the exhaust valve seats.  Despite this the head is still very “saveable” and well worth doing since few good original items seem to have survived. The sensible solution will be preheated gas fusion welding which will make a nice permanent job and will also allow plenty of scope for any future repairs which might crop up.

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Keeping Busy

Things have been characteristically busy in the workshop since my last post (which is also, as usual, the reason why it has been so long since the last post!).  Work is progressing well on the Jaguar 3.8 and the Triumph TR6 as well as to various “day visitors”: Yesterday saw the return of a 1936 Riley Kestrel 12 which left the workshop some years ago after a long restoration.  I had re-coloured some new wheels for the car in two pack paint after the wheel supplier had been unable to match the correct colour in powder coat, and the first job was to fit the tyres without damaging the new paint.  I’m a great believer in the use of rubber mallets instead of levers or tyre machines when it comes to pre-war rims and the tyres went on nicely with no marking to the wheel finish.  The rear tyres on this car only seem to last for about seven thousand miles, so a good fitting technique is proving to be essential!  The starter motor had been giving intermittent trouble on the car so I had checked over a spare unit which seemed to be working fine, and when fitted it turned the engine over nicely and briskly… sadly for only a couple of times before it expired.  Having removed the exhaust and the engine breather one more time we stripped the original starter and attended to its maladies before re-fitting.

Strangely enough, this experience has been preceded by a similar occurence with the Porsche 944 to which I had fitted a wiper motor obtained through ebay and which had worked a few times before failing.  The owner and I decided to bite the bullet and dismantle the motor which has proved a lot more reliable having polished the commutator and re-seated the brushes.  944 wiper motors, although easily visible with the bonnet raised, are not removed very quickly; furthermore new items from the manufacturer are formidably expensive, so we are both hoping that the repair proves to be long lasting!

Future projects which have been under discussion since the last blog include the imminent conversion of a late Series 1 Land Rover to a 200TDi engine, the possible conversion of an early Series 1 to a Nissan LD28 engine and the conversion of an Alvis TD21 to a Ford Type 9 gearbox.  The 200 TDi engine will be the next major project and to which end there is a very tired looking old Discovery sat in the yard awaiting dismantling.

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Vintage Decades

Does anyone remember that there was once fairly widespread call to class the 1980s as the “Second Vintage Decade”? As far as I am aware that never happened, and rightly so:  The 80s were an interesting time for production car development and they gave us such classics as the Golf GTi, the Peugeot 205 and the new Ferarri Testarossa – which was in essence a re-styled 1970s Berlinetta Boxer….

The word ‘Vintage’ is a winemaker’s term which literally refers to wine ‘of a good year’, and as far as I can ascertain the first official use of the term in referring to anything other than wine was with the formation of the Vintage Sports Car Club in 1934.  The young men who formed the club were of the opinion that the modern cars of the time were fairly ghastly, being the product of the depression years, and that cars built prior to 1930 were generally better built, more exciting and therefore of a good year… Vintage.

The last few days in the workshop have involved work on a few ‘modern’ cars built in the 1990s and 2000s, and for me the 90s is the time period which most nearly fits the bill for the ‘Second Vintage Decade’: Although arguably cars have become rather less interesting over the years it’s probably fair to say that they have become steadily more evolved and more ‘user friendly’, and cars built during the 90s are very user friendly indeed.  Cars have been extremely reliable for the last 90 years or so, but more recent cars are also long lived and low maintainance. Aside from a dreadful ‘blip’ in the 1970s, car manufacturers had been steadily working to make their products better for the consumer in terms of durability and maintainance costs, and the peak of this development was probably the late 1990s.

A good case in point is the ‘works hack’ – a 1998 Peugeot 106 diesel.  I purchased it 3 years ago with 78,000 miles on the clock and, at the cost of a driveshaft, a battery and an exhaust system, it has covered a further 60,000 miles with nothing more than regular service items.  The car is now due for MOT and I have had to fit rear hub bearings and brake hoses; this is cheap motoring – especially since it never fails to return at least 60mpg.  Also due for MOT this week is a customer’s 1997 Volvo S70 diesel which I have known since new.  The only new part this car has ever required other than service items is a replacement alternator.

The problem that I have with cars built since the 1990s is that the manufacturer’s priorities seem to have changed:  The cars have become a little more complex.  Now I’ve no problem at all with complexity – a few months ago I completed quite a lot of work on an early Maserati 3200 which involved setting the timing on 4 camshafts with dial test indicators, and stripping down the front of the engine bay in order to fit a new cambelt (to be repeated every 10,000 miles or three years).  Not a problem really because although it’s a lot of work and expense, Maserati built it that way since it was the best way that they could come up with which would offer the customer the driving experience which they had in mind.

The sort of complexity which I don’t enjoy is the type which has no benifit for the consumer whatsoever, like the E Class Mercedes with no transmission oil filler, and which has to have fresh oil pumped into the drain plug hole. Perhaps this sort of design does have some benefit for the original manufacturer but the trouble is that it needlessly pushes up the cost of maintainance and repair for the owner. The perfect case in point being the 2002 model Vauxhaull I saw this year, on which the screenwash wouldn’t work because of a faulty body control module. After fitting an expensive new module, it has to be coded with a manufacturer specific device in order for the engine ECU to recognise it. If someone can tell me what’s wrong with a switch to control the washers I would be very grateful…..

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Welding and Painting

Hornet Oil Filler

Variety has certainly been the spice of life in the workshop today with work on no less than four different vehicles. The morning has been largely taken up with painting various TR6 bits ready for re-assembly and, while the paint has been drying, work on a 3.8 litre MK2 Jaguar which is an ongoing project due to be finished this winter.  The TR sump, timing cover and various bits of bracketry have been chemically stripped and were originally intended to have been powder coated but I can’t say that I’m too disappointed that this last operation has never happened:  Powder coating looks absolutely lovely but it is quite brittle which can soon leave a car which is in regular use covered in ‘scars’.  Instead of the powder coat I have painted everything in a coat of Red Oxide followed by 2 pack primer and black colour coat.  2 pack paint is good stuff – strictly speaking it’s not actually a paint but an epoxy coating and consequently it is incredibly durable and very shiny which makes it very suitable for sundry items underneath the car as well as for the coach finish outside the car.  This particular job has turned out to be the swansong for my old De-Vilbiss JGA suction feed spray gun: It was the first that I owned and was pensioned off long ago to work only with primers.  I’ve lost count of the number of vehicles which it has repaired or re-finished before I replaced it with a more modern gravity fed De-Vilbiss GTi but since then it has given great service as a primer gun until today, when I have to admit that it’s in a dreadful state and needs to be replaced.  I have to confess that I have developed considerable brand – loyalty for these items: my GTi still looks as shiny as it did when it came out of the box several years ago and as nice as the products are from manufacturers such as Iwata, it will take a lot of convincing me to change.

The morning was finished off with some repairs to the oil filler cap from a 1930′s Wolseley Hornet.  Some previous owner must have been disturbed by all the crank case blow-by and had evidently decided that a more affordable option to an engine overhaul was to drill the beautiful engraved and polished brass filler cap in order to soft – solder a piece of domestic plumbing in place, so that the crank case could gain extra ventilation. After carefully removing all the soft – solder and planishing the cap to remove all the distortion, I used a punch and die to produce a brass disc of the correct diameter to fill the hole.  The disc was then silver – soldered into place and carefully filed flush before sanding and polishing. It has ‘sort of’ effected an invisible repair, in that you can’t see the soldered join but unfortunately the engraving suddenly disappears where the hole used to be.  The owner has taken it to the local jewellers in the hope that they can reproduce the missing lettering.

Final job of the day was to cut a large chunk of rusty metal from the front of a Landrover Series 1 chassis.  The area had previously been plated over and was a good illustration of why it’s a bad idea to cover rotten metal with a patch over the top:  A good part of the job was taken up with grinding away old bits of patch and lumps of weld before a new section of 14SWG steel could be cut and gas – welded in flush. The owner and I carefully treated the repair with Phosphate, painted it and undersealed over the top to match the existing chassis finish… you would never have guessed that both of us are fully aware that the entire chassis is going to be replaced soon anyway…

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Clutches and costly fluids

Re – reading yesterday’s blog suggests that everything has gone according to plan today!  The XK8 has indeed left the workshop, no longer in ‘limp mode’, full of new transmission fluid, and with a centre console which illuminates properly. The unsupercharged V8 Jaguars use a ZF gearbox and the ‘blown’ ones use a Mercedes Benz unit. Both gearboxes were supposed to be sealed for life but experience suggests that it is more than worthwhile to change the oil and filter on either box every 60,000 miles. The fluid for the Mercedes box is available at not too horrendous cost, either from Jaguar or Mercedes Benz dealerships, or at slightly cheaper cost from Shell.  The fluid for the ZF gear box is rather expensive wherever it comes from. The only suitable fluid is Mobil LT71141 (formerly Esso LT71141) which was developed specifically for messrs. ZF. It costs the best part of an arm and a leg but is worth every penny compared to the cost of a new gearbox….

The cardboard boxes which come with the Triumph TR6 indeed seem to contain the right number of parts with which to assemble a complete car, and a few further engine jobs have brought the whole job closer to the assembly stage.

I have also been attending to another (slightly younger) TR6 today which is due for a new clutch.  TR6 clutch replacement is no longer the simple issue which the manufacturer intended it to be: This particular car is a U.S. spec. model for which a cover assembly is available with a nice light diaphragm spring. However the clutch manufacturers have ‘economised’ their range and as a consequence the overall height of the cover plates are not always to original specification. Although the clutch works, it never quite feels as good as the original did because the geometry of the linkage has been compromised. The clutch is due to go in to the car on Monday morning so I shall be spending some of tomorrow manufacturing a new release bearing carrier which will restore the linkage back to the way the factory intended it to be.

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Cars arriving and leaving

It is a time for change in the workshop this week: The Scimitar has now left for home and chose a sunny day on which to do it. Slight surprise there because I’d rather expected it to be raining after Cherine and I lavished a good helping of combined Autoglym and elbow grease on the car the day before.

By Wednesday evening the Scimitar’s place had been filled by a nice early Triumph TR6 which is to be prepared ready for the fitment of its overhauled engine and gear box.  Typical of the marque, the old engine had sounded surprisingly well right up until the time that it was retired after developing a habit of oiling plugs. ‘Surprisingly well’ means that it sounded like an acceptable but slightly tired old TR and didn’t give away the fact that all six pistons were ‘picking up’ on their cylinder bores or that the camshaft and followers were in shockingly bad condition.  The Triumph arrives in the company of sundry cardboard boxes stuffed full of parts which I’m hoping will turn out to comprise everything I need to fit it all back into one piece.

The Jaguar XK8 finally has panel illumination that works, now that suitable  bulbs have arrived with the main dealer, and the car will be ready to go out tomorrow before I start sorting through the aforementioned cardboard boxes.  One expected job which hasn’t materialised is washing a layer of dust off the Triumph, since the trailer ride to the workshop has proved remarkably and unexpectedly efficient in removing the lot by the time I arrived.  The car has been covered with a fabric dust sheet and although it hasn’t prevented dust from settling on the coachwork it has been very effecive in preventing it from sticking!

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To Replace or Not to Replace….

It has been a while since I wrote a blog on a Sunday so here’s a post to make up for it. Actually the fact that the Sunday roast hasn’t yet quite cooked although I have finished sweeping the workshop floor and servicing the machinery is the major factor inspiring this post, not my wish to redress any perceived imbalances of posting frequency.

I picked up a few spares for the MK2 Jag yesterday, at the same time that I collected some Triumph spares from an adjacent premises. This morning I took a moment to unpack them and inspect.  I have been working recently on a Moss gearbox which will end up in the MK2. It’s a box which I have known since the 1970s when it was fitted to a 3.8 litre car belonging to a family friend; when the overdrive packed up he continued to drive it as a 4 speed Jaguar, but when he forgot about antifreeze in the winter and the core plugs blew out, the car (at that time without much value) was forgotten about. Some considerable time later the remains were purchased by a customer and many spares were used in the rebuild of another 3.8 litre car. Further years down the line I obtained what parts were left and have kept them until now.  It’s amazing how much changes with the passage of time: What was regarded, in my childhood as valueless must have been an ailing but low mileage MK2 Jaguar which has yielded an almost unworn gearbox.

It was once suggested to me that part of the skill in overhauling old machinery is knowing what to replace.  I’d extend that suggestion as far as knowing what not to replace:  The gearbox in question is fitted with nearly new Hoffman “two spot” bearings. This dates from the time when ball bearing races were available in three tolerances and had one, two or three little circles etched on the outer race to indicate which one a particular bearing conformed to: One, two, or three spot.  two spot was normal for a gearbox: closer tolerance than a “bog standard” bearing but not so tight that it risked siezing as the case expanded and contracted and the shafts bent and twisted.  These days, a bearing is a bearing – and the tolerance is roughly equivalent to the old “one spot”.  Modern machinery is designed to work at this looser tolerance (despite all the popular myths about the greater accuracy of modern  production). Old machinery has to put up with this sort of tolerance in the absence of anything else. Not this particular Moss gearbox though; that will be assembled with it’s orginal bearings and will give 100,000 miles or so of further pleasant and quiet service before I have to give in and fit new bearings to it.

The other new parts which won’t be fitted to the gearbox are the end gaskets which I picked up yesterday: The holes for the bearings are the wrong size to clear the retaining circlips and the rear bearing oil feed hole is non existant. This of course could be rectified, but what can’t be rectified is the fact that they are four times thicker than the original gasket. This last fault will ensure that the bearings aren’t retained properly in the case, restulting initially in excessive main shaft endfloat and secondly in the case being worn away by live bearings.

This may be sounding a little like a lament of the current situation, but it is far from that; these times are excellent: I regularly turn up unannounced on the doorstep of my favourite parts supplier and collect parts off the shelf for Jaguar, Triumph, MG, Morris and others. That’s certainly far better than you can expect of parts supply for any modern car!

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Buying tube safely

It seems that it’s becoming a rule of thumb that the busier I am in the workshop, the more sporadic the posts become on the blog!  I have been taken up with a wide variety of jobs since my last post: I have been preparing to receive a Triumph TR6 in order to fit a recently overhauled engine and to which end I have collected an exchange gearbox for conversion to an overdrive at the same time.  The Simitar is due out with its new type 9 gearbox conversion, but had decided to develop exhaust manifold trouble just when I thought that everything was finished.  The new stainless manifolds are slightly different to the old ones so I needed some tube of the correct diameter in order to acheive a correct fit to the front silencers.  Since no one locally has any tube in stock I had hoped to save a bit of time by collecting some from the Midlands on the same journey as the TR gearbox.  Sure enough, the big stockholder near Birmingham has it on the shelf; it’s in 6 meter lengths and I wanted two different diameters but I’m pleased to carry some in stock if only they can cut it for me so that I can  get it in my 4×4.  Thereby lies the snag: They can’t cut it into lengths until later in the week. And on health and safety grounds, they can’t possibly allow me to cut it with a hacksaw as I load it into the vehicle, “in case you cut your arm off”.  I’ve blogged before about my ongoing transformation into a grumpy old man so not too much of that here – suffice to say that I have learned a lesson about just ordering the tube and quietly getting on with the hacksaw stuff without further mention.  Readers will, I hope, be pleased to learn that I have now obtained tube from another source which has not only been subsequently cut by saw, trued by lathe and welded by tig, but also has proved to be injury – free.

The fault on the Jaguar XK8 has indeed proved to be with the gear position rotary switch – confirmed by a test of the signals generated at the multiplug.  It was a fairly easy one to home in on thanks to the excellent fault description from the owner:  Strange parking sensor and reverse light behaviour and erratic illumination of the J Gate during selection.  Good observation and description of symptoms can sometimes save literally hours in the workshop!  The fault code is now cleared and all works well. We decided to take advantage of the need to remove the console by attending to faulty panel illumination at the same time and also to change the transmission oil and filter.  This wasn’t originally intended to be a service item since the ‘box’ was sealed for life – or as one enthusiast once put it, “sealed for death”…..

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MOT time

It has been a late night in the workshop today:  I took some time out this afternoon to take the MK2 for its MOT so I have been catching up with all the other jobs awaiting my attention.

I’m glad to report that the Jag passed and the last week has been a useful time to attend to a few jobs which really needed doing.  I blogged recently about the car needing a steering joint and a panhard rod overhaul before the test, but of course when I got down to things there have been one or two odds and ends to add to the job list:  A rattly exhaust heat shield, some rather faded rear flasher lenses and a left hand indicator warning lamp which had decided to work on a part time basis.  It just goes to show that firstly there are always a few more jobs than expected and secondly: for most petrol heads, faded indicator lenses, although an MOT faliure, are hardly worth considering a ‘fault’…..

Working underneath the vehicle reminds me how much I want to find time to do some thorough rust treatment.  It will be lovely to be able to go out in the rain without worrying constantly about the car deteriorating; I don’t think that I have ever seen an unrestored MK2 with such a sound, original undercarriage and I really want to keep it that way!

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Losing Fluid

I have spent the greater part of the Bank Holiday (albeit very contentedly) in the workshop, so it seemed like a pleasant idea to round it off with a trip to the pub in the Jag.  On the way home after dark, less than a mile from home, the low brake fluid light flickered hesitantly before illuminating permanently.  This was some surprise: The pedal still felt firm so it was unlikely that a pipe had fractured yet the behaviour of the warning light suggested that the fluid loss was quite rapid – more so than one might expect from a leaking cylinder. Furthermore I am in the habit of checking the fluid level once a week and it never goes down.  When we reached home I filled up the reservoir in the hope that only a partial bleed may be neccesary after rectifying the fault. This morning the reservoir was empty and there was a large pool of fluid under the Near Side rear wheel.

Knowing some of the history of the car I expected to find that one of the rear wheel cylinders was rust pitted and that the pads had worn sufficiently to bring the piston seal over the top of the damage.  Removing the cylinders revealed something I’ve not experienced before:  The car had benefitted with new pads and brake lines before we bought it and seems that the outer pad on the near side had not been correctly engaged with the piston. This had caused the piston to become more and more slanted in the cylinder as the pad wore unevenly, until the seal would no longer hold fluid.

The Dunlop design of caliper has a retractor mechanism which pulls the pads clear of the disc when the brakes are released and for this reason the backing plates on the pads have to engage with a button on the outer face of the piston so that they can be both pushed into the disc and pulled away from it.  I’ve never seen the results of driving with a pad which hasn’t been properly engaged; it’s potentially not that nice…..

This is probably a good moment to sing the praises of the Dunlop disc brakes. These days it seems fashionable to get rid of them and fit something more modern, but if they are in good order they work extremely well even by current standards. The ones fitted to the MK2 pull the car up very impressively with little pedal effort.  Interestingly the same brake fitted to the Series 1 E Type feels much less impressive: This is partly due to the rather lacklustre Kelsey Hayes servo fitted to the E Type compared to the Lockheed item on the MK2.  It may also, of course, be partly due to the fact that the E Type might need to be stopped from nearly 150 mph on those same brakes….

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A Case of the DTCs

Or to give them their full name, “Diagnostic Trouble Codes”. I have a Jaguar XK8 in the workshop at the moment which drives everywhere in “limp mode” and displays “Gearbox Fault” on the dashboard.  Plugging in the laptop reveals a DTC of P0706 which translates as,  “Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Range/Performance”

Now having a case of the DTCs is perhaps a bit like having the DTs, only a little more alarming when you discover the uncontrolable tremors in the wallet region upon finding out how much the manufacturer charges for that little widget which has failed. It can also, like the DTs,result in hallucinations which leave people believing (or at least wishing to believe) that if they clear the code it will just go away….

The truth is that although technology is advancing steadily, basic concepts remain ever the same: Fougasse and McCullough, in their motoring handbook of the 1930s described the temperature gauge like this: “A clever little device which indicates how hot your engine is. If it points to hot you need more water or a new fanbelt, a new radiator or a new engine, or else a new little device.”  DTCs are a little arbitrary in the same way as the old fashioned type of warning device.  If it says “P0706″ you have faulty cable adjustment, a faulty earth, a faulty J-Gate micro switch, a faulty connector block, a faulty rotary switch, a faulty input speed sensor, or a faulty Transmission Control Module.  New rotary switches are in the region of 250 pounds; no one usually dares to ask the price of a new Transmission control module. Therefore it’s going to make good sense to  test the circuit thoroughly before condemning anything.

The cable adjustment was indeed a little out, but correcting it and clearing the fault code hasn’t helped. I’m suspicious that it will turn out to be the rotary switch – particularly since this one shows evidence of having been disturbed before.  It works by generating a 4 bit binary coded signal over a parallel interface, and Jaguar are thoughtful enough to document the signal sequence.  When I’ve removed sufficient bits of underbonnet trim to excavate as far as the multiplug this will be the next thing to check.

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Stacking Dimes

I have a fair bit of sheet aluminium fabrication to look forward to soon, so with this in mind I have been taking a bit of time to practise some extra skills.  Usually my preferred choice for welding aluminium is by oxy – acetylene which has the side effect of annealing the workpiece as the weld progresses.  Since some of the aluminium found in ancient vehicle bodies was somewhat less than sophisticated in comparison to modern alloys, any annealing which takes place is very desirable indeed.  For working with more recent classics or for manufacturing items from new sheet aluminium there is a huge advantage to using the Tungsten Inert Gas process – more commonly known these days as ‘tig’ and to the previous generation as ‘heliarc’.

Tig welding has changed somewhat over the years:  Helium gas has given way to Argon for shielding the weld, moving core transformers have given way to electronic circuit boards for controlling the ‘droop’ of the circuit and symmetrical sine wave converters have given way to square wave asymmetrical inverters.  Not only this but tig has now become susceptible to the demands of fashion:  There is a certain ‘look’ which is found on everything from racing car components to mountain bikes; it originates in America and is usually known as the ‘Stack of Dimes’:

stack of dimes

If you have ever purchased (in the words of the catalogue) a “beautifully hand crafted oil catch tank” or a quality mountain bike, this weld will probably look familiar and in some quarters it is becoming the expected look.  It isn’t a look which quite fits a vintage or classic car, but somehow that sounds like a rather hollow excuse for not producing it. Instead I think that I’d prefer to respond to such expectations with an explaination of how tig welds used to look before mountain bikes existed…. and then to offer to produce the ‘stack of dimes – if that’s what you want’.

It’s taking a bit of practise to get it just right and the technique is proving well worth learning for other reasons to do with controlling the heat from the torch and the control of the filler rod.  Which is just as well because most of my work requires the weld to be filed or ground flush at the end of the job anyway….

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More Scimitars and Jaguar MOT

It has been far too long since I last blogged, which is rather indicative of how busy things have been in the workshop for the past week or so.  This is not least because I seem to have been dealing with a catalogue of minor setbacks which include deliveries needing to be chased up on the phone and new parts which don’t work when they come out of the box.  There seems to be some sort of strange rule in life which makes these things all come at once – although if any kind readers are already thinking of explaining this to me, perhaps I can express a preference for maths based statistical theory rather than the metaphysical!

Speaking of things which arrive  all at once, I have been dealing with more things Scimitar – this time an SE6 which has been rather heavily modified.  I have been storing this particular vehicle for quite some while after I fetched it on a trailer from Devon, but now its owner has come to the decision that it will have to be passed on to someone with fresh enthusiasm.  Many years ago he had fitted a well – tuned Rover V8 to the car, and at the same time the bodywork was modified with some rather aggressive arches.  The work has all been done rather neatly – hopefully it will end up being passed on to someone who will enjoy it!

Coming up at the end of the month is the first MOT for the Jaguar since it has been in our care, so a few late – or should that be ‘even later’ – nights will be called for.  It is a good case in point why the yearly MOT test is such a good thing: There really isn’t that much wrong with the car.  It will need some new rubber mountings on the Panhard rod and the steering column coupling is becoming a shade on the ‘soggy’ side.  The trouble is that without the test, how tempting would it be to delay such jobs for just a little longer?

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Deeply Scratched and Highly Polished

Speedo Drive BracketToday saw the last of the machining operations for the Scimitar – to – Type 9 gearbox conversion with the manufacture of an aluminium bracket which reproduces the original speedo cable fitting on the later gearbox. I learned my first machining skills during school summer holidays, and it wasn’t until I reached the age of sixteen that my tuition became more formal. At that age all the engineering students – myself included – found the hand finishing of machined components to be an onerous task.  Of course, like all people “of a certain age” I am now eternally grateful that in my youth I was compelled to spend hours using emery cloth to polish the file marks from steel plate, because the task is now merely a matter of course rather than a burden. In the case of this particular item I have had to rein in my enthusiasm: Having got as far as polishing with p1200 abrasive paper, the temptation was to finish off with metal polish, but instead I have to remind myself that it would stick out alongside the rough castings of the gearbox “like a nun in a snowdrift”.

Speedo Drive

The design of the bracket is extremely simple:  It bolts onto two unused holes in the tail housing of the Type 9 gearbox and has a flat section of the correct angle and dimensions to align with the speedo drive. The drive housing on the gearbox has been fitted with a counterbored aluminium distance piece which locates the original Scimitar outer cable fitting, and the new bracket is drilled and tapped 1/4″ UNC for the fitting of the orginal forked clamp.

The conversion is now almost complete and just requires the adaptation of a suitable gearlever boot and knob to finish it off.

The rest of this evening has been spent clearing up the machine area of the workshop and filling old oil drums with all the swarf which has been produced during the conversion – let’s hope that the price of scrap steel remains buoyant…..

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Testing cars and signing for parcels

It will most likely not come as any surprise to regular readers that much of today has been taken up with things Scimitar and the car has now had a successful first road test. A temporary cable connection has made it possible to check the new speedo drive against a GPS application and all is very satisfactory. Good as the orginal design was, the Type 9 gearbox makes for a very pleasant drive indeed and the ratios suit the car well.  This evening I have been machining an adaptor and bracket in order to fit the original speedo cable onto the new gearbox since this compares favourably in terms of cost with the alternative option of having a new cable made – not to mention the advantage of being able to purchase off – the – shelf cables for the vehicle in future.

I have been keeping Parcelforce rather busy recently with deliveries of spare parts for various projects – not least the growing collection of bits purchased on ebay with view to future work to the MK2 Jag.  I already have quite a collection of spares which include a good 3.8 litre engine, a straight port head,  a manual gearbox and a rear axle with limited slip diff. Perhaps it’s time to look slightly embarrassed at this point: The 2.4 litre has won my respect but everyone wants a 3.8 and that includes both Cherine and I….

Ebay has proved to be very seductive when searching for the remaining few bits and pieces which we have yet to collect and these include a pair of 2 inch carburettors on an original manifold, a suitable air intake from a Jaguar 420 and a pedal box assembly for a manual gearbox conversion.  More often than not ebay turns out to be an expensive option compared to autojumbles or classified ads, but it is extremely convenient – and not just for the buyer: Because it is so easy to clear out the garage and “bung a few things on ebay”, it also means that there is now a myriad of old car parts which would not otherwise have been offered for sale.  If only I could ebay for the time to fit all this stuff that I have now purchased, all would be perfect….

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Scimitar Continues

The new gearbox went into the Scimitar this evening after attending to a few odds and ends prior to fitting.  The new clutch proved to be slightly less than straightforward: This particular car has a 10.625 inch pitch circle for the clutch cover mounting bolts although the more common circle diameter for the 9.5 inch clutch is 10.75 inches.  The good news about this is that the clutch cover is still in production and the bad news is that in order to make the same component compatible with different vehicles it is now slightly shallower than its original specification.  It would in fact have been possible to ignore the difference because the clutch release has enough travel to accomodate it – a fact of which I’m sure the manufacturer is aware. However one of the secrets to a light clutch with a nice feel is to get the geometry of the linkage correct so with this in mind I have manufactured a new release bearing carrier from phosphor bronze which restores the angle of the clutch fork so that it goes “over centre” at the same point as does the cover assembly.

Part of the reason for using a thin adaptor plate was to make assembly easier so that the new unit has about the same clearance compared to the old one when engaging the clutch spines ie: only just enough.  The gearlever lines up nicely with the hole in the tunnel and crossmember aligns nicely with the bolt holes, although the different height of the rear mounting will neccesitate a packing in order to maintain the same gearbox height.

Next on the list of jobs  is the setting of the gearlever to bring it to the original angle, the speedo cable and the propshaft. Once these are attended to the assembly can be completed ready for road testing.

 

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The Correct Settings

I had a visit from a Bristol 403 today (not forgetting its owner) for the fitting of new rear shock absorbers – or to use the more technically correct term: dampers.  One of the things we discussed was the intital setting of the new units, the answer to which is – at least in theory – simple:

The theoretical and precisely accurate amount of damping required is critical damping as shown in the graph:  If you press a car down on it’s springs it will describe one of the shapes shown in the graph above.

As it happens few of the settings to do with driver experience ever seem to be best left at the theoretically correct, and this is largely because we have expectations of them which are very much human and  we use terms such as “handling” , “feel” and “character” to describe them.  Consequently there are plenty of sports car drivers who set their cars up to be very much overdamped and at the other extreme plenty of American luxury car drivers who drive around in an underdamped condition (not to mention that of their cars).  The choice seems to come down partly to what suits the type of car and its intended use, and partly to the preferences of the driver.  It often takes me at least a week of driving before I’m absolutely sure that the settings are the most appropriate, but that may say more about my personality than it does about damper settings…

There are plenty of instances where automotive engineering becomes tailored to human experience rather than to theoretical perfection and another such example is steering geometry: Most people who design steering modifications – particularly rack and pinion conversions – take great care to calculate a geometry which will avoid any bump steer, and I am no exception to this rule. Bump steer is a condition caused by alteration of wheel track as the front suspension deflects, and as it happens many modern cars are deliberately not devoid of the phenomenon.  The idea is that if a car is designed to give a moderately increased toe in at extremes of driving then it will be easier to handle by less experienced drivers:  It serves as a sort of early warning system when the car is getting “near its limit”.  In this case most enthusiasts prefer the theoretically perfect setting of zero bump steer and have no desire for the handling to be compromised in order  to reduce the neccesity for driver skill.  Interestingly both Jowett and Riley used to provide a height adjustment for the steering tie rod ends so that one could set the car up with precisely zero bump steer.

Personal preference is a huge determining factor: Many enthusiasts over the years have told me that vintage cars “handle better” than later designs although clearly modern cars go round corners an awful lot quicker.  I suspect the truth of this is that to these individuals the cars just feel nicer – and I can quite understand why. A good vintage car is incredibly predictable on the road, it gives plenty of warning when it is about to slide and when it does do so it is very easy indeed to control.

Which conveniently brings me back to the issue of damper settings:  When, years ago, I used to compete in an Alvis 12/50 I treated the car to a long overdue overhaul of it’s Hartford shock absorbers in time for my entry in the winter driving tests at Enstone airfield.  The car was one which I believed I knew back to front but the newly re-conditioned and carefully set up shock absorbers had altered things quite significantly so that the panache which I intended to display in a controlled rear end drift was quite destroyed by the resulting 4 wheel slide into a bunch of cones. Come to think of it I should be waiting for people to forget about incidents like this instead of blogging about them….

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Scimitar Taking Shape

Type 9 Gearbox for SE5ASE5A Bell HousingThe bellhousing conversion for the Ford Type 9 Gearbox in the Scimitar SE5A is now finished and pictured here as a trial assembly.

 

 

Also pictured is the new cover assembly for the selector rail which has to protrude through the original bellhousing.

 

 

 

 

First job today was to set up the Scimitar bellhousing on the turret mill and produce spot faces for 4 of the bolts which now pass through it and thread in to the new adaptor plate. The remaining 2 bolts pass through the adaptor plate into the original threads in the bellhousing.

The Type 9 gearbox, unlike the original SE5A unit, has only one selector rail but when 2nd or 4th gear are engaged this protrudes much further from the gearcasing than did the rails in the original box.  In order to accomodate this I have bored a hole in the bellhousing which breaks through to the clutch area. Not wishing to soak a nice new clutch in oil I have made up the “top hat” cover in the bottom picture which attaches with three 2BA set screws into the newly machined surface inside the housing. Ford have thoughtfully provided flats on the end of the selector rail so it won’t hydraulic inside the cover plate – oh and the top hat section isn’t strictly neccesary but it looks so much more workmanlike than a plain lump of steel bar!

All that remains to be done now is to machine the guide tube for the clutch release bearing carrier so that it is of compatible size with the Scimitar clutch assembly and to machine the heads of some high tensile bolts for attaching the plate; the ones fitted now are “stock” bolts for trial assembly. The bellhousing can then be finally assembled with gaskets in place, and the whole thing will be ready to fit to the vehicle.

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Petrol

I needed to pick up a new bandsaw blade on Friday afternoon and it seemed the perfect excuse to take out the MK2.  Although I ordered the blade when I was getting ready to manufacture the Scimitar adapter plate, the old one has somehow managed to get the job done anyway: Never throw anything away until it is well and truly worn out!

I spotted a late model TR7 in Evesham and also a TR2 restoration project being trailered somewhere near Upton Upon Severn, but apart from this the Jag seemed to be the only classic car on the road.  I’m quite convinced that there has never (in theory) been a better time to use a vintage or classic car as regular transport: Even in the current hard times, people seem to have more disposable income than they did decades ago, parts availability for the cars has never been so good, and the average condition of  these sorts of cars has (even in my lifetime) improved beyond measure. Despite this there seem to be fewer classics in frequent use than ever.

I had originally intended to further support my case by proving how even the cost of fuel is more easily afforded than in years past,  however that which stands intuitively to reason isn’t always the case!  I managed to find some statistics online for the average UK income in 1965, and the AA helpfully publish fuel prices by year from the 1920s onwards.  After a few quick calculations – and a somewhat less quick trawl of google – I came up with the following figures:  In 1965 the average salary would have purchased around 80 gallons of petrol per week.  Today the average salary will purchase around 60 gallons per week.

Being an optimist (or should that be opportunist) I am prepared to turn this initial setback of my argument to my advantage:  Modern cars use so much less fuel than those made prior to 1965 that their owners can drive much further on the average salary than would have been possible in the 60s or 70s.  This does seem to prove that fueling a vintage or classic car is now less affordable than ever – particularly if you drive a Jaguar at around 22 mpg.  The enjoyment of the drive of course is priceless, and how many modern car users receive all that for their money?  Nevertheless I’m glad that I accepted that fuel loyalty card from the local filling station….

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More Ford Type 9 Conversion

Type 9 Adapter PlateI finished off the adapter plate for fitting the Type 9 gearbox into the Scimitar SE5A today – and managed to get a decent workout into the bargain when it came to finishing the profiled edges! The finished plate bolts to the new gearbox with the four counterbored holes which are large enough to accept a thin 19mm socket and will leave the bolt heads below the surface of the plate. The original Scimitar bellhousing will then bolt on to the other six holes and the slightly bigger hole in the top of the plate (which is actually on the right of the photo) gives clearance for the selector rail.  The adapter plate is made as thin as possible in order to use the shorter of the available first motion shafts and to bring the position of the gearbox as near to original as possible.  Because of this I decided to maximise strength by using a really good quality bit of steel.  The workshop machinery all coped well with the task although the swarf was coming off the big Willson lathe in rather an interesting shade of blue.  The plate was profiled to external shape with a bandsaw and then finished with a file before polishing with emery, and it was the latter two operations which also made me turn a rather interesting shade in the summer heat!

The next job will be to spot face the original bellhousing so that the bolts (some of which now face rearwards instead of forwards) will have a good surface on which to tighten.  One extra job had been unforseen until the new gearbox arrived:  The single rail selector has to pass through a newly bored hole in the bellhousing and it will need a cover making for it in order to seal oil.  I shall be producing a spot facing for this also when the bellhousing is set up on the milling machine.

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